Loads of luxury, lovingly displayed in a great collection from Fendi, whose biggest star was the soundtrack, a brilliant performance by the father of disco, Giorgio Moroder.


All leavened with wit and humour; from the baguette bags built of shearling, made to look like fresh bread; to the marvellous oversized denim blousons created out of mink or shearling.

Fendi – Fall-Winter2023 – 2024 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – © ImaxTree

Presented in a very cool set, featuring a series of silver disco ball circulating on an elevated aluminium track above the heads of the 1,200 guests at this show.


In Milan, you can tell if a brand is hot by the number of fans and street photographers outside. Well, despite the chilly weather, a couple of thousand folks swarmed around outside Fendi Milan HQ, whose show was held in its official show-space on Via Andrea Solari.

Inside, there was an intense mood of expectation, as the lights went down and the 82-year-old Moroder went into action.


Like the soundtrack, an original score commissioned for the show, the collection broke plenty of new ground.


First in tailoring; whether grey felt shirts that morphed into a ponchos, or the fray-hemmed mini capes – like Clint Eastwood doing couture. Featuring lots of single-sleeve tops – shiny in aquatic chenille or anthracite cashmere. Plus, mirroring a major menswear trend, double-breasted ankle grazing topcoats. One was even finished with ragged trim.

Fendi – Fall-Winter2023 – 2024 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – © ImaxTree

“I wanted clothes that were sexy and made you feel good. Where you go out for day with soft relaxed clothes. Then for night, you want to shine. Yet, I also wanted this sense that you can go to work and then directly to dance, before going to work again,” chuckled Fendi’s menswear designer Silvia Fendi in a crowded backstage.


Much of the collection paired with a great series of totes with raised lettering logos, of posh dystopic multi-pocket fanny packs. Best of all, all sorts of geometric monograms and logo tricks, playing with the house coats in chunky cashmere scarves, mohair throws or weekend totes.


And expressing the new-found optimism suffusing Milan, the hip color of this season – Imperial Roman purple – seen in leather pants, rawhide letter bags; deerskin shirt jackets.


Climaxing a great fashion statement, that produced a prolonged applause at the finale as Silvia took her bow.


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