Highlights from the Autumn/Winter 2021 Copenhagen Fashion Week
The Danish capital kicks off the Autumn/Winter 2021 season with a fully digital showcase.
While there may not be a 12-hour red-eye flight to Copenhagen for a front-row seat at Fashion Week, there is, however, the good ol’ internet as the Copenhagen Fashion Week moves its Autumn/Winter 2021 showcase online.
Talks of sustainability were prevalent. Copenhagen Fashion Week has always been leaders in the sustainable fashion movement. A recent pledge to go fully zero-waste by 2022, which includes fulfilling 17 requirements before a brand can secure a spot on the calendar, saw its first-step towards the applaudable goal with the introduction of the Zalando Sustainability Award, launched in collaboration with European e-platform, Zalando. The Autumn/Winter 2021 winners, the neat and timeless structures of House of Dagma.
Coffee mug in hand, Chromecast at the ready. The Nordic brands unveils its signature series of effortlessly chic, Scandi-cool looks as expected from the locale. But this time, finished a timely twist that’s in-line with current appetites for what’s cosy, familiar and comforting: relaxed proportions and mood-boosting details, that is.
Long-sleeved maxi dresses
Oftentimes, there comes trend that, while not completely inventive, works so incredibly well it’ll prompts a bemused “Oh!” Long-sleeved maxi dresses, in both cotton and knit, is one such ingenuity. So easy to slip on, so easy to wear; it’s refined dressing without all the fuss. Winter-apropos maxi dresses are just something that makes complete sense, it’s effortless. Just trade in leather boots for strappy sandals during those transitional winter-to-spring weeks.
Straightforward and simple is the cue at By Malene Birger, with pieces not unlike the woolen throw currently tossed over your sofa. Tightly woven in heavy-gauge threads, the knitted pieces (with matching separates!) ditch the original bodycon predecessor for something looser, more liberated. For a lighter handfell, Skall Studio expertly reshapes the classic shirt dress: now longer, more relaxed and less work-like with a pleated bodice and ruffled collar, cuffs and hems. Styling wise? With trousers of wider proportions, like those of Nynne.
Slouchy, layered tailoring
The need for pieces that comfort — silhouettes that graze instead of cling desperately on, propel beyond the refines of stay-at-home sweat-sets and into the world of tailoring. It was only inevitable, with all the time now spent indoors. Here, it’s not about sharp, angled shoulders and tapered cuts, but rather, the lack of them.
Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s slouchy silhouettes, previously having trained under Dior and Balenciaga, lend a considered lesson in making these renewed shapes work: layered endlessly over one another; oversized blazer atop oversized shirts that drape lower and lower until pools of fabric form from the cuffs of ultra-wide trousers at the floor. A sentiment similarly echoed by the constructions at Anne West, which goes a step further with split cuffs for a shared moment in the spotlight with carefully chosen footwear.
Sure, knits are a cold-weather mainstay. The racks of creams and camels upon of turtlenecks and fuzzy jumpers. But sweater vests? Outlandish patterns you’d never think to wear beyond the week of Christmas? Perhaps not. Autumn/Winter 2021, then, is the place to begin. We’re talking motifs so kitschy and palettes so jarring, it’s creates wonderful magic. A wintry addition that should absolutely not be without.
Well and truly a Ganni forte, the contemporary Danish brand’s take on grandpa’s winter vest is standard stripes done with the signature quirk, naturally — each rule features varied graphics and the moniker in different fonts: A smiley face, a paisley swirl and ‘Ganni’ in a bubbly, curvilinear typeset on repeat. There’s even a portrait of a grizzly bear too, if you pay close attention. Lovechild 1979’s rendition has a little more restraint with a remake of the traditional Argyle — far from stuffy, muted palettes, now closer to contemporary with splashes of baby pink instead.
Glossy, glitter façades
A sprinkle of shimmer can go a long way. So much so, it can even bring back the joy of dressing up even if there’s no particular place to go. Rather than dousing in a sea of sequins (still could do with Rotate’s pretty puff-sleeve sparkly dress!) — the most obvious route to gaining that effervescent, ‘eyes-on-me’ shine — it’s about the slick, lacquered surfaces for Autumn/Winter 2021. A renewed swipe of intrigue upon the quotidian shirts and jackets we’ve only donned for the past year.
The light-glinting surfaces of the pieces from Rotate and Remain, especially one mock-croc textured jumpsuit from Rotate dabbed with iridescent sheen is a wonderful piece for rambunctious nights out (should restrictions continue to ease). Holzweiler, however, offer more sensible and practical take; a long-line skirt, a button down jacket that would be useful for rainy seasons. Perhaps the shiny, lacquered puffers from Stand Studio, too.
Brighter, louder patterns
Not another year of muted greys and whites. No. We know better. This Autumn/Winter 2021, wild, colour-strewn stories take hold for the depths of winter. It’s big, bold patterns with brighter than bright palettes that can’t help but stop and stun. It’s exactly what we’re after right now. A burst of happiness. Some sartorial-led optimism.
It’s hard to pick amongst Stine Goya’s range of gelato-adjacent shades. Everything is beautiful. There’s a pleated maxi dress with crushed neon-rainbow florals (with styling of wide-leg-trousers tucked underneath dresses again), and an abstract patterned coat panelled in alternating palettes and styled with tights in the matching print. We’ll say it again: Matching patterned leggings. Amazing. Marimekko is also one beloved for unapologetically loud prints, so the macro-sized, wallpaper-like patterns of polka dots and waves goes without saying. But the hypnotic swirls upon the swinging Rotate dress? Love.